
Go to Momofuku Ssam Bar. Go now. Soon, you won’t be able to get in the door. The place is stinking with hipness, and the place looks more packed every night. Normally I hate this, but MSB’s innovative and delicious cuisine makes it all worthwhile.
Chef David Chang made a name for himself just a few blocks away at Momofuku Noodle Bar (appearing soon in a blog near you), which won high praise from the New York food press after it had already won over the hearts and stomachs of New York chefs.
Chang is trying to shake up the restaurant paradigm, and MSB has gone through a number of transformations. It began life as a sort of Korean Chipotle (ssam is the Korean word for street food that you eat with your hands; at MSB, it’s a rice-paper wrapped pound of goodness – think Asian burrito…), where you could pick from a several pre-designed ssams or make your own with the available ingredients. They also served the incredible Berkshire pork buns that helped make the original Momofuku famous. That was about it.
Then MSB started staying open until 2 or 3 in the morning and serving a late-night menu that consisted of whatever Chang felt like cooking that night. Chang’s chef fanboys started coming in droves, and some joined him in the kitchen. Eventually a formal menu emerged and was served every night, 10 til’ close.
Then at the beginning of this year, the late-night menu became the dinner menu. You can still get ssams during the day, but after 6 there’s no customization. Don’t even ask.
The menu is quirky and doesn’t really fall into the usual appetizer, entrée, dessert breakdown. The items vary a lot in price and size, but few get very expensive. Try anything: it’s all pretty good. The ssams and pork buns are great, and the country ham, Brussels sprouts, and Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwich) are all worthy contenders. Prices vary, but a great meal can be had starting around $12. Sharing is a good idea.
Warning: Chef Chang HATES vegetarians. There’s really only about one vegetarian option on the menu (a tofu ssam), and it’s probably the weakest item on the menu – bland and chewy. If pork’s not for you, neither is Momofuku Ssam.
Momofuku Ssam Bar is in the East Village. No reservations.
Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 2nd Ave, NY, NY 10003 (at 13th St.) Map
212-254-3500
Menu